CHRISTMAS IN GREECE
*December 25th
by Gary Van Haas
Christmas was never considered much of a holiday in Greece compared with Easter, but
things have slowly changed and now it's finally become a much cherished. For instance, now
you'll find Christmas in Greece celebrated with lavish decorations and lights strung
across most of the streets in major cities and towns. Athens in particular has responded
to the revival of Christmas where its flamboyant mayor, Dimitris Avramopoulos, has added
new colour to the festivities by erecting the largest Christmas tree in Europe. This tree
can be seen towering above busy Syntagma (Constitution square), where Athens now also
hosts exciting 'live' stage acts and shows featuring many of Greece's popular
entertainers.
But the beginnings of Christmas in Greece go back to the time of St. Nicholas, who was
known as the patron saint of sailors. According to Greek tradition, his clothes were
soaked with brine, his beard drenched with saltwater, and his face is covered with
perspiration because he had been fighting the storms and waves to reach sinking ships and
rescue drowning men from the sea. Even today there is still an old custom where many ships
never leave port without a St. Nicholas icon carried in the boat.
In Greece, there are many Christmas customs that are similar, yet slightly different
from the West. Such as the custom on Christmas Eve where village children travel from
house to house offering good wishes and singing 'kalanda', the equivalent of Christmas
carols. The children often accompany the songs using small metal triangles and little clay
drums. Afterwards, the children are usually given sweets or coins in appreciation.
In Greek Christmas, the feast itself becomes the main attraction by both adults and
children alike. Lamb and pork are roasted in ovens and open spits, and on almost every
table are loaves of 'christopsomo' ('Christ bread'). This bread is usually made in large
sweet loaves of various shapes and the crusts are engraved and decorated in some way that
reflects the family's profession.
In Greek homes, Christmas trees are not commonly used, but recently have become more
popular. In almost every house though- the main symbol of the season is a shallow wooden
bowl with a piece of wire is suspended across the rim; from that hangs a sprig of basil
wrapped around a wooden cross. A small amount of water is kept in the bowl to keep the
basil alive and fresh. Once a day, a family member, usually the mother, dips the cross and
basil into some holy water and uses it to sprinkle water in each room of the house. This
ritual is believed to keep the 'Killantzaroi' (bad spirits) away. There are a number of
beliefs connected with these spirits, which are supposed to be a species of goblins who
appear only during the 12-day period from Christmas to the Epiphany (January 6). These
creatures are believed to come from the center of the earth and to slip into people's
house through the chimney. More mischievous than actually evil, the Killantzaroi do things
like extinguish fires, ride astride people's backs, braid horses' tails, and sour the
milk. To further repel the undesirable sprites, the hearth is kept burning day and night
throughout the twelve days. Gifts are finally exchanged on St. Basil's Day (January 1). On
this day the "renewal of waters" also takes place, a ritual in which all water
jugs in the house are emptied and refilled with new "St. Basil's Water." The
ceremony is often accompanied by offerings to the 'naiads', spirits of springs and
fountains. All in all, Christmas is an enjoyable part of Greece toady and one that should
be experienced by all.